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Manufacturing was undertaken by. After the demise of the Eusta air pistol in the early s, no concentric air pistols were being produced anywhere in the world and it was not until that this hiatus was filled, when a new and unusual model from Germany came onto the market. This was the highly innovative Record Jumbo air pistol Fig. The pistol was the invention of the then owner of the company, Martin Barthelmes, and its unique features were:. The oval piston head can be seen in Fig. This was the first time a non-circular air cylinder had been used in an air gun of any kind.

These features were patented in Germany and the UK in In relation to size, ease of cocking and power, the overall efficiency of this pistol must be on a par with that of the Hy-Score pistols. The pistol was relatively successful and survived into the mid to late s. It had certainly been discontinued by the time that the Fritz Barthelmes company, which by then had got into financial difficulties, was taken over by I. Enser Sportwaffen GmbH in There were few variations to the design, and pistols were available with smooth, chequered or, in the de luxe version, oak leaf patterned grips.

The Jumbo Target de luxe version was introduced in late and had an adjustable sight. The pistol itself is largely of alloy construction with some steel parts,. The appendage at the base of the grip is a spring loaded cover for access. The pistol was available in. The cocking stroke of the Jumbo. Note the positioning of the pivot and linkage below the cylinder. This was only the second time that anyone had attempted to produce a repeating concentric air pistol, and like the Hy-Score it was exceptional in being designed to shoot diabolo pellets rather than the ball shot that was more used in repeating spring air pistols.

However, it could only cope with flat-head pellets. Like the Record Jumbo the pistol used an elliptical cylinder to maximize swept air volume while maintaining a slim-line appearance. Cocking was by a side-lever, reminiscent of that used by the Warrior, although located on the left hand side of the frame rather than the right. The unique shot repeating mechanism employed a spring loaded magazine that was inserted in the base of the grip. The main disadvantage of the design was that it could not be loaded manually as a single shot. The pistol had an alloy frame and cylinder, with a matt black epoxy finish, and only the side lever was blued steel. It was available with plain walnut or plastic grips, or plain wood-finish anatomical grips. The barrel was rifled and available in 0.

Although there appears to be no patent for the gun itself, the auto-feed mechanism was patented by the company German patent , applied February 16, ; patented June 8, As mentioned, the gun itself was not a great success, no doubt because the repeater mechanism was temperamental, and consequently relatively few were made. It is certainly much rarer than the Jumbo, and whilst of no great age, this. The fact that it is one of only two repeating concentric air pistols ever to be made justifies it finding a place in any representative air pistol collection.

Today sadly there is no concentric air pistol in current production and with present day preferences lying towards single stroke and pre-charged pneumatics, it is doubtful if any manufacturer will ever be prepared to invest the time and finance needed to introduce a new model onto the market. Lawrie gets Innovativewith CO2Lawrie Amatruda, renowned in the airgun world for his knowledge of pump-up and CO2-powered guns, describes how he used his ingenuity to convert a Sharp Innova pump-up to bulk fill CO2, in part to prove that it could be done After a friendly discussion with a pal about whether an airgun with a blow off valve could or could not be converted to a bulk fill CO2 gun, my view was that it could be done.

The pictures here will explain how I achieved my goal. The heart of the system is a steel probe soldered to the front of the original Innova valve assembly, and a floating reservoir which allows gas to flow into the firing chamber when the pump arm is opened slightly, and shuts off the flow when the pump arm is closed. The only changes to the original gun are: 1 I had to make a slightly elongated hole in the original pump tube to accommodate the bulk fill check valve, which moves forward. The rearward movement is caused by the pump arm being closed, thus stopping the flow of gas. I also had to reduce the volume of gas being transferred into the firing chamber which by the way was the original Innova compression chamber.

The sleeve can be made smaller or larger to adjust the power. I fitted a piece of split metal tubing into the the main tube to restrict the opening movement of the pump to about two inches; this is all the movement necessary to open the transfer valve and also stops the filling check valve from hammering on to the front edge of the elongated slot in the main tube. And if the story just so happens to actually be true, that makes it all that much more interesting. There are stories of rare pieces that were bought for a song, silhouetted against a special piece that took a wheelbarrow load of trade bait to reel it in.

Sometimes rare airguns are stumbled upon in the most unexpected places, and other times it can take many years to finally acquire that highly desired piece that has eluded the collector for decades. And of course, there is. I myself have been on all of these sides at one time or another, so I deeply understand the thrill of victory, and the agony of defeat. This short tale of an airgun find also had a few plot twists along the way. Some time back, I was contacted by an individual who possibly wanted to sell an old ball reservoir air rifle.

The only problem, he said,. I was promised photos which came from a cell phone camera a few days later. The tiny photos revealed a typical bellows rifle instead. He later explained that the ball was missing from what was actually the unoccupied rear aperture sight base on the top tang! Disappointed as I was, I attempted to explain the true nature of the airgun based on the sent photos. I also broke the. Famed airgun writer and collector for nearly 40 years, Larry Hannusch, tells a tale of good fortune that all collectors will understand — some because it has happened to them, others because they hope it will one day.

I stuttered that I now thought I had been wrong about the nature of the. The triggerguard, breech loading system, and bulky buttstock all seem to point to the Dasch airgun as one of the many bellows airgun that are often encountered by collectors. The extensive use of brass for decoration and embellishment is typical for this era of air rifle. But the Dasch also displays a high degree of nice engraving on the brass furniture. My mood and money changed hands quickly. It was good news for him. I sweated airgun darts. Chalk one up for the thrill of victory. The Dasch rifle is a large, heavy gun exhibiting high quality construction.

With its full length stock, fancy triggerguard, and cocking. All the furniture. As the barrel release is pushed forward, the breech of the barrel springs upward to expose the. The metal rest along the right side of the wrist allows the shooter to keep his thumb out of the line of sight while shooting. These types of thumb rests are often seen on similar air arms as the bulkiness of the wrist section does not allow enough clearance for proper sighting. This refers to a design in which the barrel diameter at the breech is relatively large 1. Perhaps it was simply a matter of following established barrel making practices for this type of indoor target arm.

A silver barrel band is found at the breech. The rifle is a breech loader which would have used large, tufted darts as projectiles. The latch seen below the action in front of the triggerguard is pushed forward to. There are several theories as to the engineering concept behind such a design construction. Some feel that it was an attempt to change the center of gravity of a rifle to facilitate the steadying of the gun for offhand shooting. Others suggest that it was a carryover design from. The heavy, cast brass buttplate is nicely engraved, as is the brass escutcheon around the cocking stud. The large trigger blade seen here is actually the setting trigger.

The thin, hairlike firing trigger can just be seen protruding into the upper brass ring of the guard. The pivot for the Dasch barrel is the type commonly used on many bellows rifles in that the long wooden forearm serves as a flexing point. It certainly can be a weak point on such guns, as the stock is usually rather thin near the muzzle. In fact, the Dasch forearm shows some old cracks and repairs in this area. The front sight is fairly small and plain. The open rear sight, however, is quite nicely executed. The windage adjustment is handled by the typical. The elevation adjustment is unique in that the entire blade is movable in a vertical direction and then held in the desired position via a screw anchor. The forward end of this sight base is embellished with a pineapple finial which duplicates the design of the triggerguard finial.

There is a base socket for the missing rear peep sight which is a part of the upper brass tang. The stock on the Dasch is made from a single piece of walnut from the butt to the muzzle which terminates with a horn endcap. There are two panels of checkering: one on the right side of the wrist, and the other diamond panel located under the forearm. This Dasch would have been only suitable for right-handed shooters because of a steel thumbrest that is present on the right side of the wrist. In addition, the stock features a very pronounced Tyrolean design with a beautiful carved cheekpiece with double-sculpted borders.

A steel stud protrudes from the right side of the buttstock which is used to cock the airgun for firing. The rear sight is nicely constructed with a unique design to adjust the elevation. Note the quality of the original browning on the octagonal barrel. It is held in place by two brass thimbles. The 18 inch ramrod found on this rifle is largely cosmetic in function, as the Dasch is a breech loader. Besides, the ramrod just barely reaches halfway down the 30 inch barrel. Directly below the breech of the barrel beneath the stock is the aforementioned barrel release latch..

The brass triggerguard is an ornate, finger-specific style often seen on bellows airguns. This design allows for a firm and consistent grip by the shooter. Protected within the domain of the triggerguard are the double set triggers. The rear trigger blade must be pulled first to set the trigger. The tip of the front hair. The shooter inserts his forefinger into this ring to touch off the shot. All of the brass furniture, including the heavy cast buttplate, is nicely engraved. The high quality of the engravings strongly suggests the experienced skill of a master. Many bellows guns encountered today have simple, almost primitive engraving decorations.

But the Dasch decorations reflect a high degree of skilled execution Now we come to examining one of most intriguing parts of the Dasch This spring-piston unit can be easily removed from the gun to reveal the beautifully engineered mechanism that is truly the heart and soul of this airgun. And what a masterpiece it is. One of the first things I noticed upon removing the unit was its massive weight. This powerplant is essentially a complete spring piston airgun scaled down to be fitted within the confines of a wooden buttstock. The powerplant unit is comprised of a steel chassis and a brass cylinder with a tubular transfer port at its anterior end.

The forward end of this. The brass cylinder houses the spring and piston. Measuring the dimensions of the mechanism reveal a 2. A double set of volute, flat stock springs are positioned between the head and the steel chassis of the powerplant. Turning the stud clockwise with a wrench, as the original crank is missing through a o arc compresses the mainspring via a modified chain link system and allows for the sear to catch the piston in anticipation of firing. This flat bar serves to translocate the sear release function quite a distance forward to interact with the double set trigger mechanism found in the wrist of the rifle. The inherent design of such a set trigger system creates a small striking force which is directed to the front of the elongated sear bar when the powerplant is installed in the gun.

This small impact force generated by the set trigger upon the sear bar is enough to release the piston and spring, instantly compressing the air in front of the. This is the powerplant unit as it is removed from the Dasch air rifle. The long silver flat rod below the brass cylinder is the elongated sear bar. Not surprisingly with its short stroke and long transfer port, the air compression design is rather inefficient and under-powered. Yet the beauty of the design is that it is consistently inefficient with every shot, making for an ideal indoor target airgun.

Unfortunately, I do not have any darts larger than. Please do not report me to the airgun cops, but I dry-fired the Dasch a couple of times to check its function. The firing behavior is snappy and vibration-free. And the fact that the Dasch still functions smoothly after all these years is a testament to its solidity of construction. So exactly when was this unique air rifle created? Good question. We need to examine the context of the design against other known butt-piston air rifles and Dasch firearms to narrow down the era. Invariably, these pieces display wonderful aesthetics and craftmanship. Most of these firearms are dated by the reference captions as circa However, there is one incredible percussion double rifle signed by Dasch in Graz that was purchased by Austrian Emperor Ferdinand I in Perhaps this air rifle was made as a special custom offering from Dasch for one of his wealthy firearm customers.

This Dasch butt piston airgun belongs to a rare class of handmade air rifles dating from the middle of. So the first thing we know is that Herr Dasch was not some gunsmith hack, but was indeed a very skilled and accomplished gunmaker. Comparing similar butt-piston airguns from other known makers such as Grasel and Johan Peterlongo suggests the time period is much more likely to be accurate.

This itself is a puzzling time frame, as this would date the manufacturing of this genre of airgun well after the bellows airgun era Perhaps we are looking upon some of early forms of the nostalgic replication of airguns-that being bellows airguns dating years prior. As the brass cylinder with transfer tube is removed, the double volute springs and leather-headed piston can be seen. It took special skills for a gunmaker to produce any pneumatic arm, especially one as superb as this specimen which exhibits such a high degree of craftsmanship.

So why would such an antiquated design be used as the basis for a target air rifle at this relatively late date? The course of life for an airgun collector can be full of surprises, disappointments, victories, and. It is almost impossible to predict when or where the next airgun lead will produce a desirable acquisition. And yet, I have a few collector friends who seem to have these types of rare air rifles stacked up like cordwood. That is all part of the mystery and excitement that drives many of us to pursue airgun collecting with a passion. Certainly the thrill of the chase generates the adrenaline that compels us to foolishly race onwards in hopeful anticipation of discoveries yet uncovered.

In this cocked position, the well engineered and finely crafted lock parts can be seen functioning to hold the piston in place ready for firing. Part of the chain link system that pulls the piston rearward upon cocking can be seen at the back of the steel chassis of the unit. It had been polished to such an extent that you could almost shave in the reflection — and that was just the stock!

Sadly the cylinder and cocking lever stampings were tidy enough to indicate none of the original finish had been lost through pitting and the BSA would undoubtedly have been far more desirable in its original state. The rifle was fitted with a No. My first attempts at grouping with the rifle were unsuccessful and I soon discovered the friction fit aperture sight was loose after undergoing a polish prior to refinishing. Now the Mark II Service is a rifle which has a special place in the heart of.

When I picked the rifle up, I could immediately. Most collectors remember the one that got away and can relate numerous stories when the subject comes up for discussion. I believe every collector has the right to a lucky find at least once during their collecting career and will relate such a tale here before taking a closer look at the Webley. At the time, I already had 2nd and 3rd Series examples but not the somewhat less practical 1st Series and wanted to complete the set. This eccentric shooter had made a home for himself in a cabin and tried to be as self-sufficient as possible. The rifle was used to obtain food and with its rotary bolt and military style profile, I aspired to one day own an example myself, as at the time I was never going to be able to afford one.

I continued to read. Whatever I say about the Service will include an element of awe as the design still impresses me to this day. The Webley Service air rifle had only recently been introduced, so let us see what a contemporary reviewer thought of this novel design. Air Rifle is an example of its high mark of efficiency. Directly this air rifle is handled there is evidence. There remains but accuracy in action, and this was borne out by test A safety catch is another refinement of this well. The unabridged report also pointed out the rifle was supplied with leaf sights and an adjustable aperture sight. The reviewer went on to say the rifle could be had with a. This latter facility would no doubt have been a convenient provision for potential poachers!

The case in. Most contemporary designs did not carry such features and the risk of damaging rifle or fingers was ever present. The sear was a patented anti -beartrap device intended to prevent the barrel from snapping down, should the trigger be inadvertently released during the cocking process or the sear fail. It worked by engaging with the top of the piston when the rifle was cocked and the barrel in the raised position. As soon as the barrel was closed in readiness for firing, the intercepting sear was knocked out of engagement by the barrel. Webley pointed out that if the intercepting sear was engaged, it was necessary to re-cock the rifle a fraction in order to engage the main sear before the rifle could be discharged.

The first two Series of Service air rifles also had a manual safety catch fitted in a belt and braces approach to safety. The 2nd edition of the instruction booklet, which accompanied each new rifle, included. It should be noted that the safety catch cannot be applied unless the rifle is at full cock. Anyway, back to the advert I placed for the. One door closes and another opens, so the saying goes, and it was not long before I had a call from someone on the Isle of Wight, offering his Webley Service to me. He did not want to swap it for my. The rifle had belonged to his father and he claimed only 8 pellets had been fired from it, since it was bought new in He said he knew this as he had actually counted the pellets in the pre war box of BSA pellets, which had been bought with the rifle and there were left!

He said the rifle was contained in its original box and asked me to make an offer for it. BSA pellets; and a red Intercepting Sear warning label. I then had a sleepless night wondering about this rifle. Was it as good as he said? Should I have offered more? Is he likely to offer it to someone else and most importantly, will he call again? The call came the following afternoon. My offer was acceptable and we agreed to meet at Lymington in the New Forest. A quick inspection in the boot of the car revealed a Webley Service box in fine condition. The sides were split but the labels were all clean and readable. If the rifle was as clean as this, I was about. The stock and action duly emerged from an old pillow case and at first glance, I could see what looked like deep pits along parts of the finish.

With the first pangs of disappointment approaching, I took a closer look. They were not pits at all. Its unique lines give the rifle a character all of its very own. Militaria advertised one for sale a year or two ago. Retailers used to stamp their names onto mass produced air rifles as a way of advertising their business and many BSAs in particular can be found with such markings on either the stock, trigger block or the barrel.

Such markings are a lot rarer on Webley air rifles, so the AJAX stamp on this Service provides a little more scope for research into the original retailer. Note the rail underneath the barrel, which engages within the barrel carriage when in position. The Ilford shop was located at High Street with the railway supplying United Dairies just behind the shop. Alan recalls shotguns as well as air rifles being for sale, alongside other general sports equipment and he spent many a day longingly staring at racks of guns he could not afford at the time. The Ilford premises came first, as the markings on the Improved Britannia made no mention of Romford.

The company is also listed. The Webley Mk2 Service air rifle was supplied disassembled at the point of sale. The neat box was about the size of a shotgun box and contained the barrel separate from the stock and action. On the left. The latter markings also appear on the label attached to the lid of the box, where the calibre would usually be. This box of South Street, Romford during the s. Pic: Romford Library. The original owner presumably wanted a rifle and barrel with matching serial numbers, so rifle number was placed in the box.

Perhaps the shop had run out of Webley pellets or the salesman offered the more expensive brand as a substitute. I remember carefully removing the packing grease from the rifle and the temptation to test the rifle with the original BSA pellets when I first bought it was just too much. The June edition of. I did not have a chrono to hand but did not doubt the above figures after firing six or seven shots. I recall flames. Some packing grease had got into the cylinder and I had to remove this with the greatest of care as that dieseling could potentially damage the rifle or result in an illegal shot over the 12 ft lbs limit. The rifle remains tight and each click during the cocking process gave the impression of using a brand new rifle.

I have not fired many pellets through this Webley since that memorable occasion and rarely use it for fear of damaging the finish in some way. That is one disadvantage of this deal of a lifetime. The rifle is simply too nice to use but if that is all I have to complain about, roll on the next one. As I briefly alluded to above, each new rifle was accompanied by a comprehensive instruction manual authored by Frank Morton, an International rifle shot and previous winner of the Bisley Grand Aggregate and Service Rifle Championship.

Hints on Air Rifle Shooting was published in at least nine editions. Here is a selection. Image courtesy of David Clyde. The first accompanied the 1st Series rifles, the second edition was for the 2nd Series and the rest accompanied the 3rd Series of rifles, being updated as and when necessary. Rather than rewriting sections, occasionally a blank oversticker or sticker bearing revisions in the same font as the text in the manual can be encountered. For example, the second edition makes reference to the safety catch, whilst the third has a blank oversticker over the relevant section. The third edition I examined also claims good diagrams may be obtained at 80 yards with use of the peepsight, whilst one second edition I examined has an overprinted sticker over this section with at 80 yards amended to at long ranges, which was used in all later editions.

Closer examination determined the third edition was actually a second with an oversticker proclaiming. Third Edition. Presumably the 80 yards comment was from the first edition and someone forgot to add an oversticker to the third edition I inspected. A late second edition examined carries two overstickers with an amended To Replace Mainspring passage which omits reference to the steel and rubber washers. There are also. I have never seen a first edition booklet but the second suggests early mainsprings were in two sections, whilst the third edition makes reference to a one piece spring.

As well as a two piece spring, Second Series rifles were said to contain steel and rubber washers on the spring guide parts 75b and 76b respectively. When replacing the mainspring, the second edition instructed owners to:. Note the late type Intercepting Sear. By January , Webley had introduced their distinctive oblong tin and included an illus-tration in their Unrivalled Accuracy catalogue. It also indicates the. In later second and subsequent editions of this handbook, they discouraged the use of light oils such as 3-In-1 and recommended their own No 2 oil to maintain high velocity.

Webley collector David. This thicker lubricant kept the bronze piston ring constantly lubricated and the rifle acted as a miniature diesel engine in principle. The Service likes a little lube then and high flashpoint moly. The rearsight on the Webley top is situated considerably closer to the eye than the sight on a contemporary BSA and can seem more out of focus when eyesight starts to deteriorate. As long as you do not overdo the oil and grease, the rifle will operate smoothly and consistently. The object should be to see a hint of smoke with each discharge of the rifle and certainly not clouds of it, accompanied by vicious recoil. The sixth edition was originally printed in and reprinted privately in around The reproductions were of excellent quality and well worth picking up as a contemporary reference.

Strong words indeed and ones which suggest the Service had an almost mythical following around the world from the start, which has not diminished over the years. I have forgotten all about that. Acknowledgements and further reading:Cornell Publications: www. David Clyde for finding out the type of oil Webley used and for sharing research. Hints on Air Rifle Shooting by F. Morton 2nd, 3rd, 6th , 7th and 8th Editions. Performance Webley leaflets. Webley Unrivalled Accuracy catalogues — and Webley Air Rifles by Chris Thrale. Romford Library for details on the. This folded four page flyer was printed in several editions, as improve-ments and modifications were made to the Webley Service.

Way back In Paul Giffard filed a provisional patent which was completed in the same year and related to a system of rifles and pistols being operated by liquidated carbonic acid gas carbon dioxide. These were commercially produced, but not in great numbers and the design was overtaken by the spread of spring-operated designs. In the 20th Century the American air gun industry seemed to settle on Co2 or pump-up pneumatic airguns rather than using spring power, and Co2 development re-commenced. The two main competitors in the market were Crosman and Benjamin both of whom produced great numbers of rifles and pistols using. I first started collecting and shooting classic air guns shortly after the breech loading pistol ban, concentrating mainly on early British spring powered air pistols.

The first Co2 pistol to meet this criteria was the Crosman sem-auto with one thing then leading to another as is inevitably the case in the addictive world of collecting. The situation was clarified in when low-powered Co2 guns once again became available without unwarranted restriction in the UK. An unfortunate consequence of the earlier restrictions was that no Co2 guns were developed within the UK during that period, although there were some excellent designs produced and exported by other European countries. Today a multitude of Co2 powered guns are available in the UK, but as stated earlier, my own interest is.

Although the Schimel GP22 was not the first classic Co2 pistol that I acquired, I selected it for this article as it is. The Schimel GP22 was manufactured with a rifled barrel in. The small company went bankrupt in and the manufacturing fittings were acquired by the American Weapons Corporation. The pistol. The pistol bears a strong resemblance to the classic German Luger, so closely. Filling the Schimel with gas involves pulling the charging lever at the rear of the pistol down which in turn lowers the chamber that contains the 8 grm Co2 capsule. A 10p coin is then used to undo the screw plug at the base of the chamber following which, a capsule is inserted neck end first, into the chamber and the screw plug tightened using the coin.

The charging lever is now returned to the closed position the action of which pierces the Co2 capsule. The small button on the side of the pistol must now be pushed forward which closes the outlet valve. Finally, the charging lever is operated once again to complete this slightly. The toggle at the top of the pistol is now raised and a pellet inserted into the breech which is seated when the toggle is closed. For successive shots it is only necessary to insert another pellet, push forward the valve button; and open and close the charging lever until all the gas is.

It is absolutely essential that the valve button is pushed forward before each operation of the charging lever as otherwise the entire contents of the gas capsule will be lost when the lever is pulled back. It would obviously have been much better had these. The Schimel used a type of gas release quite unlike anything that had been used before or since. It consisted of a sliding seal shaped like a double cup, the centre of which fitted closely over the breech end of the barrel tube whilst the outer cup flanges made close contact with the inner walls of the pressure chamber. The charging lever released a charge of gas in front of this seal, and when the trigger was pressed the disengagement of the sear allowed the cup seal to be blown backwards away from the breech end of the barrel by the gas pressure, thus exposing the pellet to the instantaneous blast of gas which drove it up the barrel.

Most groups held the black aiming area 70 mm of the card with the best 5 shot string measuring 40 mm C to C. Apart from looking extremely cool, the pistol sits nicely in the hand and has proved an absolute pleasure to shoot. As with all Co2 pistols there is no felt recoil, but quite a lot of accompanying noise which only adds to the experience. Although the Schimel could never be described as a serious target pistol, it is acceptably accurate and can undoubtedly provide a great deal of pure fun.

It could be that the relatively fragile cocking lever. Performance data for the pistol was recorded over a 10 shot string through a Skan chronograph using RWS Hobby. The values were recorded after 5 unrecorded shots had first been taken to preclude any variation which may have occurred immediately after the fitting of a new Co2 capsule. Trevor Adams, the celebrated airgun writer and owner of the cinedux. Even his career as a medical doctor sometimes took a backseat to collecting and writing about vintage airguns. Talk about love at first sight. Amongst them was his Daisy air rifle, my first air gun.

I think kids grew up a lot quicker during World War 2. With parents still in their twenties and. I recall starting school in — my mother walked me the two and a half miles from home to the school. I had to find my own way back home in the afternoon. She also asked me to marry her. As a nun would do to Jesus, I did to Daisy at that time. I knew other kids with airguns. Ones who were not as discreet as I. My own method was to put the treasured object at the bottom of a drawer stuffed with comics. During the war.

Excellent for concealing air guns and good reading as well. In 16 years my father never discovered my cache of guns! By dint of guile I traded my Daisy for a couple pop-out pistols. Pre-war Gat-style shooters. I think the inclination to have pocket-sized guns was deep within my psyche. Once I tired of fondling and cocking my latest acquisitions, I found it necessary to dismantle them. Most of these fellow kids seemed to load anything of near enough to the right size, into their shooting irons. This is where I came into my own. My repairs mostly seemed to last only for a few shots. I was on my way to being a genuine horse trader!

Said mates could not afford to be anywhere near as indulgent about my gun-smithing though, and a. How little he knew. I coveted the products of these firms and collected their adverts, cut from comics and Meccano magazines. Lots of stationary stores sold packets of slugs. The steel BB was noticeably absent at this time. I suppose all the iron had gone into battleships? We did get some Aussie-made stuff. One such item was a Milbro CUB pistol — a sort of squirt gun. Squeezing a rubber bulb in the grip of this pistol. As the magazine held rounds you could shoot all day, or until you got cramp in your hand. The serous shooter in me determined I should devote more time to my most precious acquisition of , a. What a lovely rifle. For a long. It would be fair enough to say the Cadet Major and I hunted the same rabbit each evening for a year!

Off it would go! See you tomorrow night. Eventually it simply took no notice of me. Glass counters were filled with gleaming air pistols. Webleys, Acvokes, Dianas, Crosmans, and Benjamins. Simply dazzling. No other word for it, I was in love again! In ensuing weeks I handled just about all these pistols. They really enjoyed demonstrating products. They required hardly any cocking effort and they shot harder and more accurately than any of my spring-powered guns. I think these single-shot CO2 guns signaled an air gun renaissance for me. Away from these new arrivals from America, most air guns I came across, right up until the late s, were of pre-war vintage.

By I had a wall in my office covered with contemporary and older air guns. They were in full view of everyone and drew no comment what-so-ever. We had a quarter acre section and I shot my air. My career took us to Australia. Laws regarding gun ownership were strict there. Air guns were lumped in with firearms and it was necessary to sit a license exam to even own, say, a Sheridan pneumatic rifle. Also, owning an air pistol was only possible if you. My guns languished in storage, back in Auckland. I pined for them — truly. So much so, we decided to return home to New Zealand. I still recall the joy of reunion with my air guns. Heated, carpeted, with walls that were half panelled and half pegboard, it really was quite magnificent.

A 2m-long work bench allowed me to fiddle. Fifty-five Webley handguns made up one corner of the room. Of course, on top of all this classic steel was an assembly of USA-. Pneumatics and carbon dioxide powered. Over my work bench I have placed my Bussey air gun. What a rare wee beast this one is. Cased and complete, it only cost me 60 bucks. I learnt a lot from joining the Antique Arms Society. Many firearms collectors had the odd air gun lying about. Now here is where I got really lucky. This put me in touch with just about every new airgun on the market. It was a time of plenty and sports stores would have upward of 30 different air guns, rifles and pistols, on display. My interest was, and always will be, the old and odd air gun but getting involved with the new and flash did.

Early in the s I met my friend, Trevor Morris. He had a great nose for condition and rarity. Trevor was teaching in the lower North Island. However, we managed to cobble together a magazine called New Zealand Airgun. Published quarterly, it found a bit of favour across the airgun world. Those were halcyon days. We would churn off page letters to one another every evening. All good things… as they say. Better than that, Peter offered me a column in his new baby! The rest, as they say, is history. What goes around comes around, eh? On 8th August , George Gibson Bussey, an English sporting goods ma-nufacturer, was granted the first British patent relating to the design of a spring-powered airgun, the only all-British airguns made in the latter part of the Victorian age.

Phil Russell offers tips on restoring airguns to a decent, working condition. Over the years, many guns have come my way that are in need of tlc, usually from auctions where, although you can see some defects, others remain hidden until the gun is stripped. A few more words of advice may, however, be appropriate. For many old guns, new parts are not available or are very expensive. I thus concentrate on producing an aesthetically pleasing restoration that works and is as close as possible to its original condition. It is not my intention to restore old guns to mint condition, so if you are a purist who demands only mint condition guns for display, this article is not for you.

Foryears I used a sash cramp clamped in the vice but finally made a more versatile unit. The rest was from the scrap box. But my lathe is perfect for reforming screw and bolt heads, reducing screw shank diameters before rethreading and for making new pins. Many operations can be carried out without a lathe, but it does make life so much easier and more fun. A very worthwhile investment. I use homemade rubber faced clamps for this: take a short, 10 — 12 cm length of kitchen waste pipe and cut it lengthways. Obtain a length of 10cm wide x 4mm thick rubber belting and cut two lengths to match the length of your pipe. Glue the rubber sheet onto the inside of the pipe sections, clamping them around more pipe to ensure the glue fixes the sheeting in place. When placed around a rifle action they provide superb grip without letting the vice jaws damage the action.

Disclaimer: Dismantling and reassembling spring piston air guns must be carried out safely. The author cannot accept any responsibility for damage or injury caused to property or persons, should you carry out your own repairs or renovations. We have all seen it: Odd bolts and nuts, self tapping screws or even nails used to hold a gun together or provide pivot points. They invariably look awful and put many people off buying an afflicted gun. But with a bit of effort, the gun can be made to look quite acceptable. Sometimes the repair has not caused damage e.

I used to think that all guns from Europe used metric threads but experience has taught me never to assume that to be the case. Many do, but many also have BA or imperial threads. But beware BSA. They had a great tendency to use their own thread patterns on their guns and cycles. So, what can you do when you need to replace a bolt or screw? Examination of the gun will tell you what type of screw is needed. Is the head recessed into the action? Does the screw need an external nut or thread into the action? They tend to be round types with a slot across the top that can only be gripped using a driver with a central cut out. Such a driver is easy to make by cutting the centre out of a wide blade. Making a new round nut is also easy; start with a hexagon nut, file the corners down to increase roundness then either round off using an electric drill and a file held in a vice or use a lathe.

Mount your nut on a long bolt and clamp it using more nuts and spacers. The nut may try to unwind off your bolt during the operation so file or turn it in reverse gear. If you cannot find a smooth shank for the pivot part, start with a wider diameter shank and file or turn the thread off until the diameter matches the holes in the gun. You will obviously need to remake the threads on the screw using an appropriate die.

For the screw head, you will most likely have to reform it. I often start with an allen hex head bolt and file or turn the recessed hex part off before finishing to the correct diameter and depth and adding a slot with a hacksaw. This has the advantage that it is generally possible to find allen bolts that are not threaded along all their length, making the fitment process easier. If the original thread in the gun is damaged, maybe by someone forcing a self tapping screw in, or an original screw thread is not available, you will need to retap the gun.

This is rarely a problem and my favourites are to use 2BA or 5mm threads. Pins are generally a much easier fix and I use HSS drill shanks. I always save my broken or useless drill bits for this purpose and have never failed to find a suitable replacement. I use a dremel to cut to length. I was recently faced with an Airsporter MKI with a missing stock bolt. New ones are available but I found the. Remaking screws, bolts and pins will leave a bright surface to the new item. If your screw or bolt has a bright zinc finish, this will need removing by filing or emery paper. Get the surfaces to be blued as smooth as possible. Hold the item in needle nose pliers or on a wire loop and heat in a small gas flame until dull red.

Quench in old engine oil and you should have a nicely blued item that will look good on the old gun. Do you need a new seal? If the tissue blows away on firing, the seal or tap needs attention. Many seals are fitted into a groove with an outer diameter of c. For these, if the old one is compressed but intact you can often restore it by adding a thin card or plastic shim underneath it. Simply push tubing into the groove and cut slightly proud of the breech face. A shim used as a guide helps. A set of wad punches is a good investment for cutting seals and can be had for the price of a couple of new seals. For small holes, use a leather punch. Where the seal is a simple disc, usually leather, make sure there is a clear hole in it as these tend to close over with time.

Repairing a leaky tap is more difficult; some are adjustable but you run the risk of misalignment between the tap and the bore. Replacement taps are sometimes available but if the tap has worn it is possible that the locating hole in the action has also worn so even a new tap may leak. Taps can be made if you are confident with a lathe and pillar drill and would overcome wear in the action but it would be a labour of love. I have tried all combinations of coatings on taps except for electroplating and none have proved long lived. It worked but I felt it deviated from the original engineering too much.

Leather piston washers can disintegrate in time or maybe yours contains pins, nails, and other detritus from an age of misuse. It is quite simple to make a new one. I use bits of hide, belts, old bags or even an old bicycle saddle. Car boot sales are good sources of supply. Most washers are held in place with a screw countersunk into a steel or leather central former. These rarely cause problems although I have seen broken screw heads due to the piston slamming into the cylinder end when the washer disintegrates. If the screw has broken, remove it and replace. It may be necessary to cut the old washer away first. To make a new washer I start with a disc 2cm larger than the piston. You can use a hole saw to cut it out, but this is not absolutely necessary; you can cut an approximate circle with snips and form it correctly later.

The solution can be bought at shoe shops but is only isopropyl alcohol rubbing alcohol so if you can. Assemble the new, pliable, washer on the piston head and use a jubilee clip around the piston to begin to form the cup. Add more stretcher solution if needed. Do not expect to form the complete cup immediately. Go carefully, easing the washer into a cup shape by tightening the clip over a period of hours. While waiting, I keep the washer immersed in neatsfoot oil in a jar. Eventually you will have a good cup washer the same diameter as the piston.

You can now trim excess leather from the perimeter. Use the clip as a cutting guide but do not cut flush with the end of the piston.. If your new washer is a tight fit in the piston, either tighten the jubilee clip a little or carefully remove a little leather from the sides of the washer. But be careful not to overdo it. It is a good idea to fit the new piston plus washer into the gun and leave for a day to allow the spring pressure to form the washer.

Remember to clean the inside of the cylinder before fitting the new unit. Small springs on old guns include the trigger spring or springs and maybe some smaller springs associated with loading taps; again expensive to buy alone. I collect small springs from kitchen sprays, soap dispensers, ball pens etc. You can buy selection boxes of springs from various shops but I have rarely found them to contain springs of any use. If you cannot find a spring, search the net for spring suppliers.

Very often you can buy a pack of ten or more springs for the price of one from a spares supplier. Get the wire gauge and pitch as close to original as possible. Consider buying longer springs and cutting them to size, so getting two springs for the price of one. Or make your own springs from piano wire. It is not difficult and there are several guides on the web. A lathe helps to provide the turning force but I have made several by clamping a weight to the end of a length of wire while I turn the coils over a steel rod by hand.

Some springs are more specialised. Basically straight wire. It is quite possible to make your own from piano wire, using the old broken spring as a guide and carefully bending the wire into shape using round nose pliers. If you do not have the original to copy, search the web for a picture of the spring shape. Airsporter and safety catches in more modern rifles such as early Daystates. Again, the balls can be very expensive to buy as single items, or as three in the case of the Diana trigger.

Yet they are invariably standard size bearings available in small packets from cycle shops. The Diana 3 ball trigger uses 4. If you need to fit a new ball into a blind hole, often with a spring at the bottom, ensure that the ball has enough clearance and will not stick in the hole. The question of re-blueing an old action is a common one.

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